Watches usually have a simple job: they tell time. But the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is something else entirely. It doesn’t have a traditional face, and there are no ticking hands moving around a dial. Instead, it looks more like a futuristic sculpture that just happens to keep time. Bulgari is a name people recognize for high-end jewelry, while MB&F is known for making watches that look more like tiny machines from a sci-fi movie. Put them together, and you get this—the Serpenti, a timepiece shaped like a snake’s head, unlike anything else out there.
Instead of numbers on a flat surface, time is displayed on two rotating aluminum domes, almost like eyes that shift as the minutes and hours pass. These glowing domes, milled to extreme thinness, ensure smooth motion and reduce weight. The numerals resemble a snake’s vertical pupils, coated in Super-LumiNova to glow in the dark, reinforcing the serpent-inspired design. Five curved sapphire crystals, including those over the “eyes,” offer an open view of the intricate movement inside, merging high-tech transparency with organic fluidity.
The rear of the watch is just as captivating. The exhibition caseback reveals the intricate mechanics, showcasing over 310 components working in unison. The hand-wound movement is driven by dual mainspring barrels, offering a 45-hour power reserve. A 14mm flying balance wheel, suspended like a floating mechanism, is the heart of the watch, ensuring precise timekeeping. The differential gear system allows the domes to rotate smoothly without disrupting accuracy. Each visible component is meticulously hand-finished, with brushed, polished, and sandblasted surfaces enhancing the sense of depth and complexity. A discreet power reserve indicator is subtly positioned on the back, maintaining the clean aesthetic.
More than just a mechanism, the movement itself is a work of mechanical art. The bridges and plates are arranged with an open-worked design, letting light pass through and highlighting the technical complexity. Every gear, jewel, and spring is positioned with precision, delivering unwavering reliability and a captivating visual spectacle when viewed from the back. The architecture of the movement is as much a part of the watch’s appeal as its external design, reinforcing the collaboration between high jewelry craftsmanship and avant-garde horology.
Engineering a watch like this presents serious challenges. Achieving 30-meter water resistance with five exposed sapphire windows required groundbreaking sealing techniques. The case and crystals were shaped using 5-axis CNC machining, a process so intricate that only six to eight watches can be completed each month. This level of precision is why production is capped at 99 pieces.
Looking past the mechanics, the Serpenti also makes a visual statement. Three variations cater to different tastes: titanium with blue domes for a futuristic aesthetic, rose gold with green domes for a luxurious feel, and black PVD-coated stainless steel with red domes for a bold, aggressive look. Each version turns timekeeping into a visual spectacle, transforming the watch into a piece of kinetic art that stands out on the wrist.
The titanium model emphasizes lightness and technical mastery, while the rose gold version merges classic luxury with a contemporary mechanical display. The black PVD variant, the most striking of the trio, enhances the watch’s reptilian identity, creating a design that feels alive, powerful, and mysterious.
With prices ranging from $135,000 to $170,000, the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti redefines what a watch can be. It tells time while demanding attention, sparking conversation, and functioning as a piece of wearable art. Every detail, from the hypnotic rotating domes to the high-tech craftsmanship, transforms this watch into a dynamic expression of design and mechanics. This watch is a mechanical sculpture with a pulse, a creation that embodies movement, emotion, and innovation in every detail.
