For those of us familiar with NOMOS Glashütte’s Bauhaus Dress watches, we know that they are revered for their exceptional quality, and clean minimalist design. The Tangente Midnight Blue, Orion Olive Gold, and Ludwig Reference 201 can be considered prime examples of this. I consider these watches a pair of three brothers, because as different as their personalities may be, they have the same DNA running through their core.
The three brothers show us three different takes on the Bauhaus dress watches: Classical, Modernist, and Eclectic. All this while remaining unmistakably ‘NOMOS Glashütte’ at their core. Let’s break down the differences and similarities between them.
What Sets Them Apart
The Orion Olive Gold takes the classical approach with its looks by featuring long tapering wedge lugs, a 41mm case and a wraparound lug curve. Featuring the largest dial of the three, gives the watch a spacious and atmospheric feel.
This brings us to the modernist: the Tangente Midnight Blue. With a 35mm case (which is more standard amongst NOMOS watches), this watch features straight lugs with a unique kink, that makes the watch comfortably hug the wearer’s wrist, giving a simple and proportioned feel.
The Ludwig Reference 201 is the Eclectic of the three. It combines the classical and modernist approach and develops its own unique personality. The classical approach can be seen in the likes of roman numerals on the dial, whereas the blue minute and hour hands are distinctly modernist.
The Common DNA But Some Differences Too
As different as their personalities are, the three watches are based on the same core. All three watches feature steel cases, are powered by an in-house mechanical movement, and are presented on leather straps. They all clearly represent the same NOMOS Glashütte philosophy and principles that undeniably make them masterpieces in their own right.
Going back to the differences, both the Ludwig Reference 201 and the Tangente Midnight Blue feature the manufacture Alpha handwound movement, with 43-hour power reserve, however, the Orion Olive Gold, however, utilizes the DUW 6101 automatic date movement, featuring 42-hours of power reserve.
The three watches are teamed with leather straps – the Ludwig Reference 201 and the Orion Olive Gold come with black Shell Cordovan leather from the legendary Horween Tannery in Chicago. The Tangente Midnight Blue is teamed with a sandy gray velour leather strap.
The Ludwig Reference 201 is for $1,840, while the Orion Olive Gold comes for $4,350 and the Tangente Midnight Blue retails for $1,900.